Coastal Hydrodynamics
File(s)
Author(s)
Sobey, Rodney
Type
Book
Abstract
Coastal Hydrodynamics is an advanced level reference and text on physical processes in the coastal and estuarine environment.
Topics include forcing and response, incompressible fluid fundamentals, linear wave theory, integral variables from phase speed through integral fluxes, waves on currents, wave diffraction, wave refraction, linear and nonlinear integral wave evolution.
Nonlinear steady wave theory, the Stokes (deep water) approximation and the cnoidal (shallow water) approximation, together with numerical extensions (Stokes Approximation and Cnoidal Approximation) are extensively covered. The result is a comprehensive review of the properties of steady waves, including field variables, integral properties, crest kinematics and limit waves, together with an extension to analytical and numerical nonlinear standing waves.
Real sea states are comprehensively examined, with consideration of the spectral structure, the height and period structure, wave grouping and finally irregular wave kinematics. Extensive reviews of wind wave generation and prediction, and of wave climate follow. The final focus is on long wave motions. A description of astronomical tides is followed by a review of tidal circulation in estuaries and wetlands, and finally storm tides.
Topics include forcing and response, incompressible fluid fundamentals, linear wave theory, integral variables from phase speed through integral fluxes, waves on currents, wave diffraction, wave refraction, linear and nonlinear integral wave evolution.
Nonlinear steady wave theory, the Stokes (deep water) approximation and the cnoidal (shallow water) approximation, together with numerical extensions (Stokes Approximation and Cnoidal Approximation) are extensively covered. The result is a comprehensive review of the properties of steady waves, including field variables, integral properties, crest kinematics and limit waves, together with an extension to analytical and numerical nonlinear standing waves.
Real sea states are comprehensively examined, with consideration of the spectral structure, the height and period structure, wave grouping and finally irregular wave kinematics. Extensive reviews of wind wave generation and prediction, and of wave climate follow. The final focus is on long wave motions. A description of astronomical tides is followed by a review of tidal circulation in estuaries and wetlands, and finally storm tides.
Date Issued
2024-11-29
Citation
2024, pp.1-737
Publisher
Imperial College London
Start Page
1
End Page
737
Copyright Statement
Copyright © 2024 R. Sobey. This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/).
License URL
Place of Publication
London (United Kingdom)
Publication Status
Published