Spatio-temporal measurement of laboratory wave fields using LiDAR
File(s)
Published version
Author(s)
Kristoffersen, Julie Carøe
Kabel, Thomas
Georgakis, Christos T
Bellos, Vasileios
Karmpadakis, Ioannis
Type
Journal Article
Abstract
Accurate spatio-temporal measurements of the free-surface elevation are essential for understanding wave evolution, wave breaking, and wave-structure interaction. In laboratory studies, conventional wave gauges provide reliable point measurements but become intrusive and impractical when extended to dense spatial arrays. This study evaluates the capability of a commercially available 3D LiDAR system to resolve the spatio-temporal evolution of regular and irregular waves in a wave flume, through direct comparison with high-resolution camera and wave-gauge measurements.
The LiDAR is deployed non-intrusively to capture free-surface elevation over a spatial extent exceeding two wavelengths with high spatial and temporal resolution. Regular and irregular wave conditions are investigated over a sloping bathymetry, including breaking waves. Quantitative comparisons are conducted in the time, frequency, and spatial domains, as well as individual wave statistics. For irregular sea states, significant wave height, individual wave heights, periods, and crest heights derived from LiDAR measurements show close agreement with wave gauge estimates, with root-mean-square errors typically below 6% of the significant wave height and correlation coefficients exceeding 0.97 outside the immediate vicinity of the LiDAR.
Systematic deviations are observed directly beneath the LiDAR. Under breaking conditions, the LiDAR preferentially captures the densest part of the overturning crest and aerated surface, revealing inherent differences between optical and probe-based definitions of the free surface. These effects are quantified, and practical guidance on sensor placement, data processing, and interpretation is provided. Overall, the results demonstrate that LiDAR offers a robust and efficient alternative to dense wave gauge arrays for laboratory studies requiring spatio-temporal resolution of wave fields.
The LiDAR is deployed non-intrusively to capture free-surface elevation over a spatial extent exceeding two wavelengths with high spatial and temporal resolution. Regular and irregular wave conditions are investigated over a sloping bathymetry, including breaking waves. Quantitative comparisons are conducted in the time, frequency, and spatial domains, as well as individual wave statistics. For irregular sea states, significant wave height, individual wave heights, periods, and crest heights derived from LiDAR measurements show close agreement with wave gauge estimates, with root-mean-square errors typically below 6% of the significant wave height and correlation coefficients exceeding 0.97 outside the immediate vicinity of the LiDAR.
Systematic deviations are observed directly beneath the LiDAR. Under breaking conditions, the LiDAR preferentially captures the densest part of the overturning crest and aerated surface, revealing inherent differences between optical and probe-based definitions of the free surface. These effects are quantified, and practical guidance on sensor placement, data processing, and interpretation is provided. Overall, the results demonstrate that LiDAR offers a robust and efficient alternative to dense wave gauge arrays for laboratory studies requiring spatio-temporal resolution of wave fields.
Date Issued
2026-07-15
Date Acceptance
2026-05-02
Citation
Coastal Engineering, 2026, 209
ISSN
0378-3839
Publisher
Elsevier BV
Journal / Book Title
Coastal Engineering
Volume
209
Copyright Statement
© 2026 The Authors. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/).
License URL
Publication Status
Published
Article Number
105047
Date Publish Online
2026-05-05