A laboratory study of nonlinear changes in the directionality of extreme seas
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Published version
Author(s)
Latheef, M
Swan, C
Spinneken, J
Type
Journal Article
Abstract
This paper concerns the description of surface water waves, specifically nonlinear changes in the directionality. Supporting calculations are provided to establish the best method of directional wave generation, the preferred method of directional analysis and the inputs on which such a method should be based. These calculations show that a random directional method, in which the phasing, amplitude and direction of propagation of individual wave components are chosen randomly, has benefits in achieving the required ergodicity. In terms of analysis procedures, the extended maximum entropy principle, with inputs based upon vector quantities, produces the best description of directionality. With laboratory data describing the water surface elevation and the two horizontal velocity components at a single point, several steep sea states are considered. The results confirm that, as the steepness of a sea state increases, the overall directionality of the sea state reduces. More importantly, it is also shown that the largest waves become less spread or more unidirectional than the sea state as a whole. This provides an important link to earlier descriptions of deterministic wave groups produced by frequency focusing, helps to explain recent field observations and has important practical implications for the design of marine structures and vessels.
Date Issued
2017-03-31
Date Acceptance
2017-02-08
Citation
Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 2017, 473 (2199)
ISSN
1364-5021
Publisher
The Royal Society
Journal / Book Title
Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences
Volume
473
Issue
2199
Copyright Statement
© 2017 The Authors.
Published by the Royal Society under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/, which permits unrestricted use, provided the original author and source are credited.
Published by the Royal Society under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/, which permits unrestricted use, provided the original author and source are credited.
Sponsor
Engineering & Physical Science Research Council (EPSRC)
Engineering & Physical Science Research Council (E
Identifier
https://royalsocietypublishing.org/doi/10.1098/rspa.2016.0290
Grant Number
EP/J010197/1
EP/F022964/1
Subjects
Science & Technology
Multidisciplinary Sciences
Science & Technology - Other Topics
directionality
directional wave generation
extreme waves
REGULAR WAVE GENERATION
SURFACE-WATER WAVES
OCEAN WAVES
SPECTRA
EVOLUTION
directional wave generation
directionality
extreme waves
01 Mathematical Sciences
02 Physical Sciences
09 Engineering
Publication Status
Published
Article Number
20160290
Date Publish Online
2017-03-08