Data-driven parameterisation of representative wave heights and periods over coastal bathymetry
File(s)
Accepted version
Author(s)
Al Khalili, Umniya
Christou, marios
Karmpadakis, ioannis
Type
Journal Article
Abstract
Accurate representation of wave conditions is essential in the design of coastal infrastructure and requires
reliable estimates of representative wave heights and periods across variable bathymetric conditions. This
study develops data-driven predictive formulations for the evolution of these parameters using an extensive
numerical dataset generated with SWASH, comprising over 2 million individual waves simulated across 21
sea-states and 5 bed slopes. The dataset enables a detailed evaluation of existing models commonly used in
engineering practice, highlighting their limitations in capturing nonlinear transformations of wave statistics
in coastal waters. Building on physical insights into wave evolution, new formulations are derived for the
root-mean-squared wave height, explicitly accounting for sea-state steepness and bed slope. Furthermore,
a new expression for the mean energy period is introduced that incorporates the influence of infragravity
energy through the local slope gradient. These results are extended to propose updated relationships for
the mean spectral and mean zero-crossing periods. The proposed parameterisations provide improved
accuracy and physical consistency for representing nearshore wave conditions, offering a practical tool for
the design and assessment of coastal infrastructure.
reliable estimates of representative wave heights and periods across variable bathymetric conditions. This
study develops data-driven predictive formulations for the evolution of these parameters using an extensive
numerical dataset generated with SWASH, comprising over 2 million individual waves simulated across 21
sea-states and 5 bed slopes. The dataset enables a detailed evaluation of existing models commonly used in
engineering practice, highlighting their limitations in capturing nonlinear transformations of wave statistics
in coastal waters. Building on physical insights into wave evolution, new formulations are derived for the
root-mean-squared wave height, explicitly accounting for sea-state steepness and bed slope. Furthermore,
a new expression for the mean energy period is introduced that incorporates the influence of infragravity
energy through the local slope gradient. These results are extended to propose updated relationships for
the mean spectral and mean zero-crossing periods. The proposed parameterisations provide improved
accuracy and physical consistency for representing nearshore wave conditions, offering a practical tool for
the design and assessment of coastal infrastructure.
Date Acceptance
2026-03-24
Citation
Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers: Maritime Engineering
ISSN
1741-7597
Publisher
ICE Publishing
Journal / Book Title
Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers: Maritime Engineering
Copyright Statement
Copyright This paper is embargoed until publication. Once published the author’s accepted manuscript will be made available under a CC-BY License in accordance with Imperial’s Research Publications Open Access policy (www.imperial.ac.uk/oa-policy).
License URL
Publication Status
Accepted