Laboratory investigation of crest height statistics in intermediate water depths
File(s)rspa.2019.0183.pdf (2.02 MB)
Published version
Author(s)
Karmpadakis, I
Swan, C
Christou, M
Type
Journal Article
Abstract
This paper concerns the statistical distribution of the crest heights associated with surface waves in intermediate water depths. The results of a new laboratory study are presented in which data generated in different experimental facilities are used to establish departures from commonly applied statistical distributions. Specifically, the effects of varying sea-state steepness, effective water depth and directional spread are investigated. Following an extensive validation of the experimental data, including direct comparisons to available field data, it is shown that the nonlinear amplification of crest heights above second-order theory observed in steep deep water sea states is equally appropriate to intermediate water depths. These nonlinear amplifications increase with the sea-state steepness and reduce with the directional spread. While the latter effect is undoubtedly important, the present data confirm that significant amplifications above second order (5–10%) are observed for realistic directional spreads. This is consistent with available field data. With further increases in the sea-state steepness, the dissipative effects of wave breaking act to reduce these nonlinear amplifications. While the competing mechanisms of nonlinear amplification and wave breaking are relevant to a full range of water depths, the relative importance of wave breaking increases as the effective water depth reduces.
Date Issued
2019-09-27
Date Acceptance
2019-08-19
Citation
Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 2019, 475 (2229), pp.1-24
ISSN
1364-5021
Publisher
The Royal Society
Start Page
1
End Page
24
Journal / Book Title
Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences
Volume
475
Issue
2229
Copyright Statement
© 2019 The Authors. Published by the Royal Society under the terms of theCreative Commons Attribution Licensehttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/, which permits unrestricted use, provided the original author andsource are credited.
Identifier
https://royalsocietypublishing.org/doi/10.1098/rspa.2019.0183
Subjects
Science & Technology
Multidisciplinary Sciences
Science & Technology - Other Topics
wave crest statistics
nonlinear waves
breaking waves
SURFACE GRAVITY-WAVES
RANDOM DIRECTIONAL WAVES
PROBABILITY-DISTRIBUTIONS
MODULATIONAL INSTABILITY
2ND-ORDER THEORY
EXTREME WAVES
SAMPLING-RATE
SEA
SIMULATIONS
breaking waves
nonlinear waves
wave crest statistics
01 Mathematical Sciences
02 Physical Sciences
09 Engineering
Publication Status
Published
Article Number
20190183
Date Publish Online
2019-09-25