Crest-height statistics in finite water depth. Part 1: the role of the nonlinear interactions in uni-directional seas
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Published version
Author(s)
Zve, ES
Swan, C
Hughes, GO
Type
Journal Article
Abstract
This paper explores the competing nonlinear processes that define the largest crest heights in uni-directional
random seas. In deep water, the third-order near-resonant interactions produce a focusing of the freewave energy and hence larger crest elevations. However, as the effective water depth reduces, theoretical
considerations, based upon the assumption that the frequency spectrum is narrow-banded, suggest that this
process weakens and below 𝑘𝑝𝑑 = 1.363 (𝑘𝑝 being the wavenumber of the spectral peak frequency and
𝑑 the water depth) energy defocusing occurs. This paper first explores how the near-resonant interactions
affect the crest heights arising in broad-banded, non-breaking, uni-directional seas in a wide range of effective
water depths. It also quantifies the role of the bound-wave interactions. The numerical calculations conclude
that 𝑘𝑝𝑑 = 1.363 indeed defines the boundary between energy focusing and defocusing for realistic jonswap
sea-states, irrespective of the spectral bandwidth and steepness. However, for 𝑘𝑝𝑑 < 1.363, the bound-wave
contributions increase the largest crest heights, while the near-resonant interactions reduce them. The tail of
the crest-height distributions is therefore defined by two competing nonlinear processes. The present results
have important implications for both the interpretation of laboratory data describing crest-height distributions
and the appropriateness of second-order models for practical engineering calculations.
random seas. In deep water, the third-order near-resonant interactions produce a focusing of the freewave energy and hence larger crest elevations. However, as the effective water depth reduces, theoretical
considerations, based upon the assumption that the frequency spectrum is narrow-banded, suggest that this
process weakens and below 𝑘𝑝𝑑 = 1.363 (𝑘𝑝 being the wavenumber of the spectral peak frequency and
𝑑 the water depth) energy defocusing occurs. This paper first explores how the near-resonant interactions
affect the crest heights arising in broad-banded, non-breaking, uni-directional seas in a wide range of effective
water depths. It also quantifies the role of the bound-wave interactions. The numerical calculations conclude
that 𝑘𝑝𝑑 = 1.363 indeed defines the boundary between energy focusing and defocusing for realistic jonswap
sea-states, irrespective of the spectral bandwidth and steepness. However, for 𝑘𝑝𝑑 < 1.363, the bound-wave
contributions increase the largest crest heights, while the near-resonant interactions reduce them. The tail of
the crest-height distributions is therefore defined by two competing nonlinear processes. The present results
have important implications for both the interpretation of laboratory data describing crest-height distributions
and the appropriateness of second-order models for practical engineering calculations.
Date Issued
2023-12-01
Date Acceptance
2023-11-14
Citation
Ocean Engineering, 2023, 289 (Part 2)
ISSN
0029-8018
Publisher
Elsevier
Journal / Book Title
Ocean Engineering
Volume
289
Issue
Part 2
Copyright Statement
© 2023 The Authors. Published by Elsevier Ltd. This is an open access article under the CC BY license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/).
License URL
Identifier
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0029801823027531
Subjects
DEEP-WATER
DISTRIBUTIONS
Engineering
Engineering, Civil
Engineering, Marine
Engineering, Ocean
EQUATION
EVOLUTION
EXTREME WAVES
HAMILTONIAN THEORY
Near-resonant interactions
Nonlinear defocusing
Nonlinear focusing
Nonlinear waves
Oceanography
ORDER SPECTRAL METHOD
Physical Sciences
RANDOM DIRECTIONAL WAVES
Science & Technology
SIMULATIONS
SURFACE GRAVITY-WAVES
Technology
Wave crest statistics
Publication Status
Published
Article Number
116369
Date Publish Online
2023-11-17