The influence of bandwidth on the energetics of
intermediate to deep water laboratory breaking waves
intermediate to deep water laboratory breaking waves
Author(s)
Cao, Rui
Padilla, EM
Callaghan, AH
Type
Journal Article
Abstract
An experimental investigation of two-dimensional dispersively focused laboratory breaking waves is presented. We describe the bandwidth effect on breaking wave energetics, including spectral energy evolution, characteristic group velocity, energy dissipation and its rate, and breaking strength parameter, b
. To evaluate the role of bandwidth, three definitions of wave group steepness are adopted where Ss
and Sn
are bandwidth-dependent and Sp
remains constant when bandwidth is changed. Our data show two regimes of spectral energy evolution in breaking wave groups, with both regimes bandwidth-dependent: energy dissipation and gain occur at f>0.95fp
( fp
is the peak frequency) and f<0.95fp
, respectively. The characteristic group velocity, which is used in energy dissipation calculations, increases by up to 7 % after wave breaking, being larger for higher bandwidth breaking waves. An unambiguous bandwidth dependence is found between Sp
and both the fractional and absolute wave energy dissipation. Wave groups of larger bandwidth break at a lower value of Sp
and consequently lose relatively more energy. The energy dissipation rate depends on the breaking duration which itself is bandwidth dependent. Consequently, no clear bandwidth effect is observed in energy dissipation rate when compared with either Sp
or Ss
. However, there is a systematic bandwidth dependence in the variation of b
when parameterised in terms of Sp
, with their relationship becoming increasingly nonlinear as bandwidth increases. When parameterised with Ss
, b
shows a markedly reduced bandwidth dependence. Finally, the numerical breaking onset and relationship between b
and Ss
in the numerical study of Derakhti & Kirby (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 790, 2016, pp. 553–581) is validated experimentally.
. To evaluate the role of bandwidth, three definitions of wave group steepness are adopted where Ss
and Sn
are bandwidth-dependent and Sp
remains constant when bandwidth is changed. Our data show two regimes of spectral energy evolution in breaking wave groups, with both regimes bandwidth-dependent: energy dissipation and gain occur at f>0.95fp
( fp
is the peak frequency) and f<0.95fp
, respectively. The characteristic group velocity, which is used in energy dissipation calculations, increases by up to 7 % after wave breaking, being larger for higher bandwidth breaking waves. An unambiguous bandwidth dependence is found between Sp
and both the fractional and absolute wave energy dissipation. Wave groups of larger bandwidth break at a lower value of Sp
and consequently lose relatively more energy. The energy dissipation rate depends on the breaking duration which itself is bandwidth dependent. Consequently, no clear bandwidth effect is observed in energy dissipation rate when compared with either Sp
or Ss
. However, there is a systematic bandwidth dependence in the variation of b
when parameterised in terms of Sp
, with their relationship becoming increasingly nonlinear as bandwidth increases. When parameterised with Ss
, b
shows a markedly reduced bandwidth dependence. Finally, the numerical breaking onset and relationship between b
and Ss
in the numerical study of Derakhti & Kirby (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 790, 2016, pp. 553–581) is validated experimentally.
Date Issued
2023-09-25
Date Acceptance
2023-07-30
Citation
Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 2023, 971
ISSN
0022-1120
Publisher
Cambridge University Press
Journal / Book Title
Journal of Fluid Mechanics
Volume
971
Copyright Statement
© The Author(s), 2023. Published by Cambridge University Press. This is an Open Access article,
distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial licence (http://
creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0), which permits non-commercial re-use, distribution, and
reproduction in any medium, provided the original article is properly cited. The written permission of
Cambridge University Press must be obtained prior to any commercial use.
distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial licence (http://
creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0), which permits non-commercial re-use, distribution, and
reproduction in any medium, provided the original article is properly cited. The written permission of
Cambridge University Press must be obtained prior to any commercial use.
License URL
Identifier
https://www.cambridge.org/core/journals/journal-of-fluid-mechanics/article/influence-of-bandwidth-on-the-energetics-of-intermediate-to-deep-water-laboratory-breaking-waves/2FA1E818CC27EB7255D5B38130305F56
Publication Status
Published
Article Number
A11
Date Publish Online
2023-09-13