On the average shape of the largest waves in finite water depths
File(s)Wave_Shapes_JPO_Rev_sub.pdf (1.73 MB)
Accepted version
Author(s)
Karmpadakis, Ioannis
Swan, Chris
Type
Journal Article
Abstract
This paper investigates the average shape of the largest waves arising in finite water depths. Specifically, the largest waves recorded in time-histories of the water surface elevation at a single point have been examined. These are compared to commonly applied theories in engineering and oceanographic practice. To achieve this both field observations and a new set of laboratory measurements are considered. The latter concern long random simulations of directionally spread sea-states generated using realistic JONSWAP frequency spectra. It is shown that approximations related to the linear theory of Quasi-Determinism (QD) cannot describe some key characteristics of the largest waves. While second-order corrections to the QD predictions provide an improvement, key effects arising in very steep or shallow water sea-states are not captured. While studies involving idealised wave groups have demonstrated significant changes arising as a result of higher-order nonlinear wave-wave interactions, these have not been observed in random sea-states.The present paper addresses this discrepancy by decomposing random wave measurements into separate populations of breaking and non-breaking waves. The characteristics of average wave shapes in the two populations are examined and their key differences discussed. These explain the mismatch between findings in earlier random and deterministic wave studies.
Date Issued
2020-04-01
Date Acceptance
2020-01-29
Citation
Journal of Physical Oceanography, 2020, 50 (4), pp.1023-1043
ISSN
0022-3670
Publisher
American Meteorological Society
Start Page
1023
End Page
1043
Journal / Book Title
Journal of Physical Oceanography
Volume
50
Issue
4
Copyright Statement
© 2020 American Meteorological Society. Permission to use figures, tables, and brief excerpts from this work in scientific and educational works is hereby granted provided that the source is acknowledged. Any use of material in this work that is determined to be “fair use” under Section 107 of the U.S. Copyright Act or that satisfies the conditions specified in Section 108 of the U.S. Copyright Act (17 USC §108) does not require the AMS’s permission. Republication, systematic reproduction, posting in electronic form, such as on a website or in a searchable database, or other uses of this material, except as exempted by the above statement, requires written permission or a license from the AMS. All AMS journals and monograph publications are registered with the Copyright Clearance Center (http://www.copyright.com). Questions about permission to use materials for which AMS holds the copyright can also be directed to permissions@ametsoc.org. Additional details are provided in the AMS Copyright Policy statement, available on the AMS website (http://www.ametsoc.org/CopyrightInformation).
Identifier
https://journals.ametsoc.org/doi/10.1175/JPO-D-19-0165.1
Subjects
Science & Technology
Physical Sciences
Oceanography
Gravity waves
Wave breaking
Waves
oceanic
Wind waves
EXTREME WAVES
STATISTICAL PROPERTIES
EXPECTED STRUCTURE
CREST ELEVATION
BREAKING WAVES
GRAVITY-WAVES
SAMPLING-RATE
GAUSSIAN SEA
INTERMEDIATE
SHALLOW
Oceanography
0405 Oceanography
0911 Maritime Engineering
Publication Status
Published
Date Publish Online
2020-04-01